Discovering Havana, Cuba — Tour Guide For Independent Travelers

OVERVIEW

Habana Cuba is an ideal city for the “Independent Traveler” to explore. This 16th century city is full of historical sights, architectural eye candy (good and bad), winding and narrow cobbled streets, newly allowed private stores, and most of all friendly and very handsome people.

This “self-guided tour of Habana” is for those that love to explore and achieve. My guidance allows you to leave your digs in the morning, explore the old city, eat, drink, and return home saying, “Damn, we did it- that was great!” “I can’t wait for tomorrow.”

My guidance provides enough information to keep one busy for 4 to 5 days. If you want to explore outside of Habana (say Trinidad), this will require three days. Flying between Havana and Trinidad, or any other Cuban city, is very risky due to poor aircraft maintenance. Bus transportation is recommended.

2017 Cuba is not “USA disabled friendly.” You will be on your own. Don;t expect toilet seats 100% of the time. If you do not have the strength to hover, don’t go. There will be disappointments and difficulties for the majority of tourists. But, the “Independent Traveler” will take these difficulties and challenges in stride, adjust and become a stronger traveler. If you have a difficult partner to travel with, do not try this guide. Stay with a tour group, until the USA eventually allows “tourists” to roam freely in Cuba. My attached street map shows the points of interest that are discussed in this article:

THE SELF GUIDED TOUR BEGINS; VEDADO DISTRICT- A STARTING POINT

I am basing these day trips from the Hotel Melia Cohiba (1 on map). Hotel Havana is also in this area. This is known as the Vedado area or district. This area is only 15 minutes west of “Old Habana” by taxi.

Vedado has a great ocean view just across Malecon (be very careful crossing it- the cars go very fast, no cross walks), open air cafes and open air beer gardens. Vedado is a good area to locate a rental by Airbnb. It is bound by Malecon on the North, Paseo on the east, Ave.17 on the south, and Ave De Los Presidentes on the east. Assuming this area is your base, it is very easy to have a taxi drive you to Old Habana for sight-seeing.

The following walking tour is not meant to be accomplished in one day. This is a guide to allow you to explore without getting lost and could keep you moving around for five days.

OLD HAVANA WALKING TOUR (LA HABANA VIEJA)

I recommend starting your walking tour in Old Habana at Castillo De La Real (2 of map), built in 1558 to protect against pirate raids. This is a stone fort with a drawbridge , ancient cannons, and a water filled moat. There is a 5 CUC fee to enter and for a 5 CUC tip, a guide will explain the history. Old Habana has lots of small and colorful streets to wander through. You will be introduced to street vendors, architectural treasures, small stores, cafes to peer into and plazas to rest.

ERNEST HEMINGWAY’S BARS

There is a Tourist Information Booth (3 of map) at the corner of San Ignacio and Obispo. You can buy a very good street map for 1 CUC. They speak english and are very helpful. Now for a real treat and a fun place to have lunch. Go north on San Ignacio from Obispo, two blocks to Plaza De La Catedral (4 of map). After you explore that plaza, go to the north end of the plaza and walk west to Empedrado. Go west 1/2 a block on Empedrado to E. Hemingway’s favorite bar, La Bodeguita Del Medio (5 on map). Look for the big yellow sign over the street with the bar’s name on it. The open front bar will be crowded. Squeeze through the crowd and order a Mojito, one of Hemingway’s favorite drinks. There should be a Cuban band playing. The restaurant portion of this establishment is in the rear of the bar. Think about having lunch there. The food is good and reasonable. Ask the waiter for “La Plume” to sign your name on the wall. They will give you a marker pen to use. The waiters do not speak English, but are very helpful.

Tip: The lunch will have the tip included.

Staying on the theme of Hemingway’s favorite bars, let’s go to his second watering hole, El Floridita (7 on map) on the corner of Monserrate and Obispo. This is also very close to the Capitol Building, which you should take a look at. One block south on Monserrate is a taxi area.

A good place to get a taxi (not a classic car) back to your hotel. It should cost 10 CUC for the ride. El Floridita is famous for Hemingway’s Daiquiri Frappe. There is a life size bronze statue of Hemingway at the bar to cuddle up to and have your picture taken with. There is a great Cuban band there, also.

HEMINGWAY'S HOUSE

On the subject of Hemingway, you should visit his house (6 on map). It is about 1/2 an hour out of town. Negotiate a round trip by taxi. The tour will take about an hour. Be sure to look at the walls in his bathroom. The writing on the walls, by the scale, is his recordings of his worrisome weight loss. He was becoming very sick. This is when he wrote “The Old Man in the Sea.” There is a picture of the old man he wrote about in the small building by his fishing boat, Pilar.

Small tips are expected for the docents and the bathroom attendants. There is a fee per person to enter the site; about 5 CUC each.

PLAZA de la REVOLUTION

Now, from Hemingway’s House, You could take the taxi to Plaza de la Revolucion (8 on map). The plaza is the sight of Castillo’s first mass rallies after his successful revolution. The 500 foot high memorial is for Jose Martini and was built in the early 1950’s. Jose Martini is Cuba’s hero in freeing Cuba from Spain. It is not for Castillo’s revolution. The building is open to the public. Take the elevator to the observation deck. The surrounding buildings were built by Batista in the early 1950’s. Today, the buildings are Cuba’s Governor’s Buildings, including the National Library. There will be a number of classic cars for hire. Negotiate for a short ride in a convertible.

NATIONAL ART MUSEUM

After this, have your taxi drive you to the National Art Museum (9 on map), (Nacional De Bellas Artes), that is, if you have an interest in Cuban art. It is very interesting. Early Cuban art is “heavy” and a bit frightening. It records a very difficult time for the Cuban people; plagues, etc.

Tip: No pictures allowed. You could easily spend half a day there.

GOOD LUNCH SPOT

Now you should be ready for lunch. The museum has a cafe on the first floor. I did not try it. I like hunting for fun street cafes.

I found one just three blocks from the museum. It is called “5 Esquinas Trattoria” (10 on map) at 104 Esq. Cuarteles. When you come out of the museum, turn right to Ave De Las Misiones then left, for two blocks, to Cuarteles. Turn right and walk two blocks to the cafe. It has great thin crust pizza. You will think you are eating in New York. Great food! Plus they have helpful and fun waiters. They also offer a great Greek salad. Drinks are very reasonable.

Okay, I have introduced you to Old Habana. This should make you feel compatible enough to continue exploring on your own.

AIR TRANSPORTATION TO CUBA

From Los Angeles, Southwest flies to Cancun, Mexico: a 4 1/2 hour trip. From there, AeroMexico has flights direct to Havana from Cancun: a 1 hour flight. On your return trip to LAX, Southwest’s advance 24 hour online check-in will be very difficult, if not impossible, to confirm in Habana. It would be wise to pay for “Early Bird” boarding for this return flight, especially if you want to sit together. If you have time, think about crossing the harbor to visit the sights in Coran Parque Morro-Cabana. You can go by taxi through the tunnel or by ferry.

Note: When making reservations for Cancun to Havana round trip, AeroMexico’s website will have a “pop-up” asking you if you are an USA citizen. To be able to make your reservation, you must indicate that you ARE NOT a US citizen. There will be no further questions. You will be offered full use of AeroMexico’s website and will accept your credit card for payment.

CANCUN AND HAVANA AIRPORT GUIDANCE

1. Departing Cancun, MX:

1.1 Obtain Cuba visa in Cancun ($20.00 US) purchased at AeroMexico “Customer Service” counter- not the check-in counter. Note: Be careful completing the visa document. Do not cross out or write over anything. Cuba immigration will reject it. If you make a mistake (no matter how small), you must get a new visa at an additional $20.00 fee.

2. Arriving La Habana, Cuba

2.1 Obtain Cuban Customs Form on your AeroMexico flight. Complete the “Top Portion” and “Lower Bottom Portion” (same info, but do it!)

2.2 Present passport and visa to the immigration officer, one person at a time. Do not bring your wife or traveling companion to the officer with you. They will send them back to the line. One person at a time!

Go to the bathroom on the airplane before you land. There can/will be a long line and about a one hour wait to see the immigration/customs officer. The baggage claim area will be very hot and there will be a very long wait for luggage.

Once you gather your luggage, go to customs area with your customs declaration form. You should not have anything to claim since you are an arriving tourist. Proceed to this big yellow “Customs” sign with a big green dot. The agent will check your bag tickets to make sure you have the correct bags and take your customs form. Exit through the big door with a painted red frame into a welcoming crowd of waiting faces.

Do not hire a taxi from that crowd. After you leave the terminal building, turn left and proceed to the official yellow and black taxi area.

Note: The toilets are on the second floor of that terminal area and there is an information booth on the first floor reception area (you will be expected to tip the rest room attendant).

2.3 Money Exchange: Before you go to the taxi area, exchange your Euros at the money exchange window. One to the right of the terminal exit and one to the left. Good exchange rate! Only get CUC currency- do not get CUP money. There is no need for it. You will never use it.

Tip: There is a 10% exchange tax on US dollars in Cuba. So, if the exchange is 12%, you will end up paying 22% to convert your US dollars into CUC. Exchange US dollars into Euros in USA and Euros for CUC.

ACCOMMODATIONS FOR THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELER(S)

Being an independent traveler to Cuba, and choosing to not be controlled by USA Humanity Travel Rules, you will not be required to stay with a Cuban family during your visit. This is a US requirement if you travel per the state department’s rules for licensed humanitarian, professional, educational, etc categories. I have included a sample “itinerary” document, at the end of this article, that you should have when you return to the USA.

I recommend three accommodation choices for the independent traveler; hotel, Airbnb, and hostal. A high-end hotel, that I recommend, is the Hotel Melia Comina at Malecon and Avenida Paseo in the Vedado area of Habana. It is also located on the bay near the new US Embassy. Malecon is the main road east from Hotel Melia Cohiba to main harbor, Castillo De La Real Fuerza and Old Town Habana. Shops, food, La Bodeguita Del Medio (Hemingway’s Mojito bar-try to have lunch there and sign the wall), and lots of small streets full or architectural “eye candy”. This hotel is valuable to know about, even if you are not a guest there. For a 5 CUC fee, you can use their business center for air reservations and email access, if everything is working.

This hotel also has a cashier that will change Euros into CUC currency for reasonable fee. Banks will also exchange Euros but they have long and slow lines. Taxis from this hotel to Old Habana ( where you “must” go) is 10 CUC for a regular taxi and 15 CUC for a classic car.

Airbnb offered me a great house to stay that is walking distance from the Hotel Melia Cohiba. It is called Casa Calle (11 on map) at “D” street and 11th street. The daily rate is 200 CUC. It is clean, well kept and safe facility. It has three air conditioned bedrooms with attached bathrooms. Breakfast and lunch cost 5 CUC and dinner is 12 CUC for two to three people. It has a beautiful front veranda for gathering and eating.

Morning and afternoon staff are available, plus a full time host. She has a separate cottage she lives in. The house is yours. Airbnb offers other options from houses to apartments. I visited one hostel in the same general area: it is Dona Juana (www.d-juanahotel.com). It looked very clean and safe. There is a wonderful open air restaurant on the third floor (authentic Cuban food). I saw a small kitchen for the guests.

HAVANA NIGHTLIFE

A great cabaret show, with dinner, is at the establishment “Tropicana”. This is a must to see. Surprisingly, the dinner, is very good. Additional cabaret shows are available in the local hotels. Do not go to a taxi recommended show. Do your homework. Some additional choices are: Cabaret Parisien, in the Hotel Nacional, and the smaller clubs Cabaret Salon Rojo and Cabaret Copa Room.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL INFORMATION AND INFORMATION TIME

Cuba’s time is the same as the US East Coast.

WEATHER

Hurricane season is between September and November. July and August can be very hot and humid. Mid-November through March is the best time to go. I was there in mid-December and it was warm with a light breeze and periods of both light and heavy rain.

LANGUAGE

English and Spanish

CLOTHING

Standard light weight attire for the warm weather and day sightseeing but long pants and shirts with sleeves for evening clubbing. Swimsuits and shorts should be on the conservative side.

TIPPING

For hotel maids, taxi, historical sight guides, and bars, it is suggested to tip 10%. For restaurants, check the bill first, it may contain a 10% tip. It is up to you to add anything extra.

ELECTRICAL

Cuba operated on 110 VAC, just like the USA. But, most electrical outlets can only accommodate two prong plugs. If you have a three prong plug, you will have to get a two-to- three prong adapter. About $2.00 at any hardware store.

REFERENCE FOR FURTHER CUBAN DETAILS

There are numerous publications offering details on Cuban policies, history, regional travel and other interesting and useful information. Some publications have not been updated and do not include government allowed private enterprises. These relaxed government control started in 2011.

Review “DK Eyewitness Travel” by Melbourne, Munich and Delhi as a possible handy reference guide.